How is ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL Standard different from the other ProSoft PUL variants?

Standard is the plain 1 mil waterproof barrier that all the other variants are built on. Silver adds Silver Plus antimicrobial for freshness between washes, FoodSAFE adds FDA food-contact certification, REPREVE puts the same barrier on a recycled base, HydroSHIELD adds surface water-repellency, Heavy Duty is the thicker 2 mil, and Print is a printed face. Choose Standard when your project does not need one of those specific dimensions.

Does ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL have a smell?

Sometimes fresh off the roll there is a faint manufacturing odor from the thermal bonding process. It is not a chemical to worry about and it airs out with a wash and time in open air. For a few people it fades rather than vanishing instantly, so wash it and let it breathe before cutting if yours has a scent.

How is ProSoft HydroSHIELD different from the regular waterproof barrier?

HydroSHIELD adds a hydrophobic surface treatment so water beads and rolls off the fabric face, instead of soaking in. This is separate from the internal waterproof film, which stops liquid passing through on every variant. HydroSHIELD does not make the fabric more waterproof; it keeps the outer surface itself dry, which matters when the surface faces direct water exposure.

Can I return ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL if it is not right?

It is cut to order, so it cannot be returned once cut. Start with a swatch, which is a few dollars and answers the question in your hands before you commit a yard.

ProSoft® Waterproof 1 mil ECO-PUL™ Hydrophobic Fabric (W-374)

Q: Do I use ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL on its own or with other fabrics?

It is a barrier, not an absorber. For anything that catches fluid such as diapers and pads, pair it with an absorbent core above it like Zorb. For a wet bag or pail liner it works on its own as a single layer with the seams taped or enclosed.

Q: Will ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL delaminate?

Only from fabric softener, dryer sheets, chlorine bleach, vinegar, baking soda, or high dryer heat. With a zero-residue liquid detergent and low dryer heat the bond holds through 300 plus wash cycles. Delamination on this fabric is almost always a care issue, not a fabric issue.

Q: Which side of ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL faces out?

Face the film side toward the moisture, the side the wet reaches. The knit side is the side you usually want against skin or showing.

Q: Do I need the Silver (W-274) version instead of Standard?

Only if your project goes hours between washes, such as overnight diapers, long-worn pads, or pet bedding that sits. Silver Plus works in those hours. If you wash after every use, the washing does that job and the Standard does everything else identically.

Q: Is ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL Standard food-safe?

No, the Standard is not food-contact certified. That is the FoodSAFE variants W-396, W-512, and W-392, tested on both faces under FDA 21 CFR 177.1680 and 175.300. The Standard performs identically on waterproofing but has not been certified for direct food contact.

ProSoft® Waterproof 1 mil ECO-PUL™ Hydrophobic Fabric (W-374)-Wazoodle Fabrics-Wazoodle Fabrics

The fabric · what HydroSHIELD adds, and why you’d reach for it

The same line that holds — and now the surface sheds too.

This is the Standard barrier — the same 1 mil ECO-PUL, the same permanent bond, the same waterproofing and breathability. HydroSHIELD adds one thing: the fabric’s own surface repels water, so drops bead up and roll off instead of soaking into the face.

It helps to separate two jobs. The waterproof film stops liquid from passing through the fabric — every ProSoft variant does that. But on a plain barrier the outer surface can still wet out and stay damp, even while the film holds underneath. HydroSHIELD is a hydrophobic treatment on that surface: water beads and rolls off the face itself. Reach for it when the surface is what meets the water — an outer cover, a shell exposed to spray or weather, anything where you want the face to stay dry, not just the layers below it.

One honest boundary: HydroSHIELD is surface repellency, not extra waterproofing. It doesn’t make the barrier “more waterproof” — the film already does that job completely. It changes what the surface does with water, which is a different thing, and the thing you want when the outside faces the weather.

So when would you choose HydroSHIELD over the Standard?

When the fabric surface faces direct water — the outer layer of a cover, a bag, a shell that meets spray, rain, or splash. There, a surface that beads and sheds stays dry and dries faster than one that wets through to the touch. If the barrier lives inside a product — a diaper core, a pad backing, a wet-bag liner — the surface never meets open water, and the Standard does everything identically. HydroSHIELD is for the outward face.

Beads& rolls off the surface

225 psisame barrier as Standard

850g/m² a day — it breathes

300+washes, still waterproof

Test it yourself — the makers do.

This is the rare one where the difference shows itself in a second, right on the surface.

Drop water on the surface

It beads and rolls — it doesn’t soak in.

Put a drop on the treated face and tilt it. On HydroSHIELD the drop pulls into a bead and runs off, leaving the surface dry to the touch. On a plain barrier the same drop spreads and wets the face — held out of the layers below, but sitting on top. That’s the whole visible difference.

Then check the barrier underneath

Still stops water through — like the Standard.

Pour more on and turn it over: the reverse is dry. HydroSHIELD doesn’t touch the film’s job — liquid still can’t pass through, 225 psi, 300+ washes. The surface sheds; the barrier holds. Two jobs, both covered.

Makers reach for it on the outward-facing pieces — the covers and shells where the surface itself meets the weather, and staying dry on top matters as much as staying dry underneath.

Also in this family — same 1 mil barrier, different dimension

Surface stays inside the product?

Standard (W-375) is this exact barrier without the surface treatment — identical performance, for less.

→

Worn long between washes?

Silver (W-274) adds antimicrobial freshness for extended wear.

→

Touching food?

FoodSAFE (W-396) — FDA food-contact certified.

→

Unsure whether you need it? Tell us whether the water hits the surface or the inside — that’s the whole question.

The line is drawn once, and it holds — that never changes. HydroSHIELD only changes what the surface does with water: it sheds instead of soaking. For the outward face that meets the weather, that’s the whole point.

The truth · how it holds the line

ECO-Thermal Bonding

A waterproof barrier has to do two things that fight each other: stop liquid completely, and still breathe and move like cloth. Here’s how this one does both — starting with the bond that makes it permanent.

300+ wash cycles — still waterproof, the film still fused. The bond is permanent because there’s no glue in it to fail.

Chamber 01

The fuse

The waterproof film is bonded to the knit by heat alone — ECO-Thermal Bonding — with no glue, no solvent, nothing placed between the layers. So there is nothing between them to soften and separate. Where glued PUL fails, the adhesive lets go; this has no adhesive to let go.

Chamber 02

The barrier

Waterproof 300X: it holds liquid out under real pressure — 225 psi hydrostatic (ASTM D751) — and keeps holding it through 300+ wash cycles. The event stays on one side, the world stays on the other, and the line does not move.

It breathes — the both

Most “waterproof” means airtight. This doesn’t. It passes about 850 g/m² of moisture vapor a day (MVTR, ASTM E96) — so worn against a body for hours it stays a barrier without becoming a sweatbox. Liquid water can’t get through; water vapor can. Waterproof and breathable, at the same time.

The honest trade-off — it’s a barrier, not an absorber

It stops liquid; it doesn’t soak it up. That’s the whole job — but it means for anything that catches fluid you pair it with an absorbent core above (like Zorb), and for a fully waterproof product you seal or enclose your seams, because a plain needle line is a row of small holes. SilentFlex keeps it draping like cloth through all of it, never crinkling like plastic.

HydroSHIELD — the surface sheds, too

Two different jobs are worth keeping separate. The waterproof film stops liquid from passing through the fabric — every ProSoft variant does that. HydroSHIELD is a hydrophobic treatment on the fabric’s surface: water beads up and rolls off the face instead of soaking into it. It doesn’t make the barrier more waterproof — the film already stops liquid completely. It changes what the outer surface does with water, which is exactly what you want when the surface itself faces the weather.

Certified — and free of what shouldn’t be there

The proof, and the honest limits.

ProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL is CPSIA certified — Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act, sections 101 and 108 — the mandatory U.S. federal standard for children’s products (lead, phthalates, flammability). Also California Prop 65 compliant, EU REACH SVHC compliant, and EU RoHS compliant. Made in the USA by AKAS Tex.

And the absences, verified

Forever Chemicals-Free

no PFAS · PFOA · PFOS

BPA-Free

Phthalate-Free

Lead & Heavy-Metals-Free

Solvent-Free Bond

heat-fused — no laminating adhesives

Made in USA

domestic supply chain, AKAS Tex

Forever Chemicals-Free is the one worth pausing on: most waterproof and coated fabrics reach for PFAS to shed water. This one doesn’t — the waterproofing is the fused film itself, not a chemical finish. That’s the difference between this and the category it sits in.

One honest boundary — fabric vs. finished product

CPSIA certification of the fabric does not automatically certify your finished product. Depending on how you construct and seal it, your finished item may need its own testing. The validation begins with us. It passes through you. It lands with the person who receives what you made — and now you know exactly what to tell them.

From Arch

The full truth — before you buy

I want you to know a few things before you buy this, because I’d rather you hear them from me than find them after.

First: it can arrive with a faint smell.

A light manufacturing odor from the thermal bonding process — not a chemical to worry about. A wash and some open air clear it. Being honest, for a few people it fades rather than vanishing at once; if yours has a scent, wash it and let it breathe before you cut.

Second: it’s a barrier, not an absorber.

It stops liquid; it doesn’t soak it. For anything that catches fluid — a diaper, a pad — pair it with a Zorb core above it. It’s the layer that holds the line, not the one that drinks.

Third: care is everything.

Fabric softener, dryer sheets, chlorine bleach, and high dryer heat will end the bond — permanently. The Care tab names all of them. Nothing else on this page matters if softener touches it.

Fourth: seal your seams.

A plain seam resists water, but the needle line is a row of small holes. Tape or enclose your seams for anything that has to be fully waterproof.

Fifth: our certification covers the fabric, not your finished product.

Depending on how you build it, your item may need its own testing. That boundary is real, and respecting it protects the people you sew for.

Waterproofing is exactly where the forever chemicals hide — most PUL and coated fabrics carry PFAS. Ours doesn’t; the barrier is the film itself, not a chemical finish sprayed on. It’s made in the USA by AKAS Tex — our family’s manufacturing company — finishing in Bensalem, Pennsylvania.

Sew well.

— Arch

Bensalem, Pennsylvania

Specifications

The instrument panel.

ProSoft Waterproof 1 mil ECO-PUL HydroSHIELD (W-374): the Standard barrier with a hydrophobic surface — water beads and rolls off the face.

All specifications may vary ±10% per textile industry manufacturing standards.
Specification	W-374 · HydroSHIELD
Weight	155 GSM (4.6 oz/sq yd)
Thickness	0.018″
Width	58″–60″
Fiber composition	75% polyester / 25% polyurethane
Waterproof rating (hydrostatic)	225 psi — ~158,000 mm H₂O (ASTM D751)
Surface treatment	HydroSHIELD hydrophobic — water beads and rolls off the fabric surface (distinct from the internal waterproof film)
Wash durability	300+ cycles, still waterproof
Breathability (MVTR)	850 g/m²/24h (ASTM E96)
Burst strength	152 psi (ASTM D3786)
Stretch (width)	10%
Stretch (length)	Minimal
Edge finish	None — cuts clean, self-finishing
Shrinkage	Minimal, both directions
UPF	25–35 (darker colors test higher)
pH	7.4 (neutral)
Treatments available	HydroSHIELD (this) · Standard · Silver · FoodSAFE · REPREVE · Print · Heavy Duty
CPSIA	Certified
Made in USA	Yes — AKAS Tex

The workbench

How to cut it, sew it, and build with it.

Before you sew: clips, not pins

Every pin is a hole, and every hole is a place water gets through. Hold your seams with Wonder Clips or hem clips, never pins. It’s the first rule PUL makers learn and the one they never unlearn — a waterproof barrier is only as waterproof as the holes you didn’t put in it.

Station 01

Cutting

The laminate edge is self-finishing — it won’t fray, so no serging or edge treatment is needed. Cut cleanly to your pattern. Face the film side toward the wet side; the knit side is the side you’ll usually want against skin or showing.

Give it a wash before the first cut to clear any manufacturing residue. It shrinks very little, so cutting before or after washing is fine — the wash is for residue and odor, not dimension.

Station 02

Sewing

Needle: a universal or ballpoint needle. Stitch length: slightly longer than usual — fewer, larger holes. Thread: all-purpose polyester.

For a fully waterproof seam, seal it with PUL seam tape or enclose it (French seam, or turned-and-topstitched). A plain straight seam resists water, but the needle line itself is a series of small holes — fine for a diaper worn inside a cover, not enough for a wet bag that has to hold liquid. Test your build the way it will actually be used.

Build with it — the layers above the barrier

ProSoft 1 mil is the barrier — the bottom of the stack. For anything that catches fluid, you build absorbency above it and choose the face that touches skin.

The absorbent core (above)

W-202Zorb Original

the fast super-absorbent core — the classic pairing for cloth diapers, inserts, and pads. Zorb catches; ProSoft holds the line beneath it.

W-234Zorb 3D Bamboo Dimple

a soft natural-fiber absorbent layer when you want a bamboo face and body in the same piece.

The skin face (optional, topmost)

W-262ProTEC Microfleece

a hydrophobic stay-dry layer so skin feels dry through long wear, over the absorbent core.

W-434ProCool Dri-QWick Jersey Mesh

a smooth athletic-wicking face for period products and body-worn builds.

Proven stacks

Cloth diaper / all-in-one

Core + barrier

skin faceStay-dry topper (optional)

coreZorb Original

barrierProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL

The classic build: Zorb catches, ProSoft holds. Add a stay-dry topper if the skin side needs to feel dry through long wear.

Reusable menstrual pad

Soft face, sealed edge

skin sideBamboo / ProCool face

coreZorb Original

barrierProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL

The waterproof backing under an absorbent core. A single thin barrier keeps the pad trim while it holds the line.

Wet bag / pail liner

Standalone, seams sealed

one layerProSoft 1 mil ECO-PUL

On its own, with taped or enclosed seams and a zip — it holds liquid in. This is the build where sealing the seams is not optional.

Your results may vary with design, construction, and end use — and if you find a stack we haven’t listed, tell us. That’s how most of these were found.

Planning your yardage

It runs 58″–60″ wide. For heavy or overnight use, add absorbency in the core (more Zorb) rather than doubling the barrier — one waterproof layer is already waterproof. If you need a tougher, thicker shell, step up to the 2 mil ECO-PUL rather than layering two 1 mil sheets.

From the workbench

Clips, not pins — and seal your seams. Those two, every time. Everything else about sewing this is forgiving.

The keeping

The bond is permanent — and only a few things can end it.

The waterproofing is the fused film itself, not a finish that wears off. Treated right, the barrier is rated through 300+ wash cycles — it outlasts almost anything you sew it into.

Wash

Hot water is safe — rated to 145–165°F — though warm water extends the film’s life. Use a zero-residue liquid detergent. Add an extra rinse to clear detergent residue, which accumulates on and degrades the film over time.

Dry

Low to medium heat only — never above 130°F (50°C). Above that, the polyurethane breaks down: stiffening, then cracking, then delamination. Line drying is always safe.

Protect

Shield the film side from direct agitation where your construction allows — it extends the barrier’s life. The waterproofing is the film itself, so what protects the film protects the fabric.

Avoid — the destroyers, in order of consequence

Fabric softenerCoats the film and eliminates both the waterproofing and the breathability. The damage is irreversible. No recovery.

Dryer sheetsThe same coating, from the dryer side. Same ending. Makers who’d never pour in softener sometimes toss in a sheet without connecting the two.

Chlorine bleachBreaks the laminate bond — the film separates from the knit. What the heat fused, chlorine unfuses.

Dryer heat above 130°FThe film stiffens, then cracks, then delaminates. Each stage is damage, and the sequence doesn’t reverse.

VinegarBreaks down the laminate bond on this fabric. A care remedy on some fabrics in this house — the opposite here.

Baking sodaSame consequence as vinegar. Keep both out of the wash for anything with this barrier in it.

One nuance worth knowing

When a maker tells us a PUL failed, the culprit is almost always the drying cycle. Get the wash and dry right and the bond you were promised is the bond you keep.

The surface keeps the same rules

The fabric softeners and coatings that harm the bond also coat over the surface repellency — another reason to keep them out. Care for it exactly like the Standard: zero-residue liquid detergent, low dryer heat, none of the destroyers. The same short list keeps both the barrier and the beading surface working.

One more time

If you remember two things: no fabric softener, and no high heat. Those are the only ones I’ll repeat.

The makers

What people make with it — where the surface meets the weather.

HydroSHIELD is reached for when the fabric’s outward face itself meets water — not just the layers beneath it. Here’s where it’s working.

Outer covers & shells

the core case — the outward face of a cover exposed to spray, splash, or weather, where a surface that beads and sheds stays dry on top.

Bags with an exposed outer

waterproof bags whose surface meets rain or splash directly, drying faster than a face that wets through.

Outdoor & gear

surfaces that face the elements, where beading keeps the face dry and clean.

Splash-facing home goods

mats and covers where the top surface takes the water and sheds it.

Pet & equipment covers

outward-facing waterproof covers that stay dry to the touch on top.

Anywhere the surface is the front line

if the outer face meets the water before anything else, this is the one.

If your use isn’t on the list, it might be the next entry.

Order a swatch, drop water on the treated face and watch it bead, and tell us what you built. If the surface never meets open water — if the barrier lives inside the product — the Standard does everything identically for less.

Frequently spoken answers

Every question, answered in full.

The questions makers actually ask — answered the way we’d answer them at the counter. And two answered by the founders themselves.

Q1How is this different from the other ProSoft PUL variants?

Standard is the same barrier without the surface treatment; the others add antimicrobial, food-contact certification, a recycled base, print, or a heavier weight. This one adds a hydrophobic surface treatment (HydroSHIELD) so water beads and rolls off the face.

Choose Standard when your project doesn’t need one of those specific dimensions — which is most of the time.

Q2Do I use it on its own, or with other fabrics?

It depends on the job. It’s a barrier, not an absorber — so for anything that catches fluid (diapers, pads), pair it with an absorbent core above it (like Zorb).

For a wet bag or pail liner, it works on its own — one layer, with the seams taped or enclosed so nothing escapes.

Q3Does it have a smell?

Sometimes, fresh off the roll — a faint manufacturing odor from the thermal bonding process. It isn’t a chemical to worry about, and it airs out with a wash and some time in open air. Being honest, for a few people it fades rather than vanishing instantly — if yours arrives with a scent, wash it and let it breathe before you cut.

Q4Will it delaminate?

Only from the things on the Care tab — fabric softener, dryer sheets, chlorine bleach, vinegar, baking soda, high dryer heat. With a zero-residue liquid detergent and low dryer heat, the bond holds through 300+ wash cycles. Delamination on this fabric is almost always a care story, not a fabric story.

Q5Which side faces out?

Face the film side toward the moisture — the side the wet reaches. The knit side is the side you’ll usually want against skin or showing.

Q6Do I need the Silver (W-274) version?

Only if your project goes hours between washes — overnight diapers, pads worn through a long day, pet bedding that sits. Silver Plus works in those hours. If you wash after every use, the washing does that job, and the Standard does everything else identically.

Q7Is it food-safe?

No — the Standard isn’t food-contact certified. That’s the FoodSAFE variants (W-396, W-512, W-392), tested on both faces under FDA 21 CFR 177.1680 and 175.300. The Standard performs identically on waterproofing; it simply hasn’t been certified for direct food contact. If your project touches food, choose knowing, not hoping.

Q8How is HydroSHIELD different from the regular waterproof barrier?

It works on the surface, not through it. Every ProSoft variant stops liquid from passing through the fabric — that’s the internal film. HydroSHIELD adds a hydrophobic treatment on the surface so water beads and rolls off the face instead of soaking in. It doesn’t make the fabric more waterproof; it keeps the outer surface itself dry, which matters when the surface faces direct water. If the barrier lives inside your product, the Standard (W-375) performs identically for less.

Q9Can I return it if it’s not right?

It’s cut to order, so it can’t be returned once cut — which is exactly why we’d rather you start with a swatch. A swatch is a few dollars and it answers the question in your hands before you commit a yard.

Founder’s answer · from the mill floor

Why does the bond last when glued PUL fails?

Because we don’t glue it. We fuse the film to the knit with heat — ECO-Thermal Bonding — so there is no adhesive layer sitting between them. What fails on other PUL is the glue: it softens in hot washes and lets go, and the film peels. Ours has no glue to fail. That’s the whole reason the bond is permanent — not a coating we added, but a layer we left out.

— Sid

Founder’s answer · from the counter

Is it really waterproof if it breathes?

That’s the question that sounds like a contradiction, and it isn’t. Waterproof means liquid water can’t get through — and it can’t, even under real pressure. Breathable means water vapor can pass — and it does, about 850 grams a day. They’re different sizes and different rules: the flood stays out, and a body can still breathe against it for hours. Don’t take my word for it — drop water on the film side and then hold it up to your breath. The water stays out; the warmth passes through.

— Arch

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Disclaimer

No Returns Policy

All our orders are custom and cut to size. Due to the nature of our process, we are unable to accept any returns or exchanges.

Warranty Info

Specs Disclaimer

This information is obtained by industry accepted test methods and represents typical data. Please work with a +/- 10% variation from any of the aforementioned specs. Nothing contained herein is to be construed as permission or recommendation to infringe any patent. It is furnished for your general information only and does not represent a warranty or guarantee of Wazoodle Fabrics.

Fabric Content: The components of the fabric. Note that variations in fiber blend percentages may occur within a +/-10% range.
Fabric Weight: The mass per unit area of the fabric, typically expressed in grams per square meter (gsm) or in ounces per square yard (osy). Expect a possible variation of +/-10% from the stated weight within the same sku from different lots as well as different colors within the same product style.
Fabric Thickness: The measured thickness of the fabric in millimeters or inches. As with other metrics, this can vary by +/-10%.
Fabric Shrinkage: Percentage of reduction in dimensions after washing and drying. Shrinkage can vary, so anticipate up to +/-10% difference from the data provided.
Fabric Stretch: The elasticity of the fabric and its ability to return to its original size after stretching. Please allow for a +/-10% variation in stretch capabilities.
UPF Rating: Indicates the Ultraviolet Protection Factor offered by the fabric. Variations in protection levels can occur, and a +/-10% variation should be considered.

Wazoodle Fabrics makes no representations, collateral agreements, conditions or other warranties of any nature or kind, express or implied, with respect to such information or product and assumes no responsibility as to the accuracy or the suitability of the information or product for purchaser’s intended uses. The purchaser should conduct its own tests to determine the suitability of the material for their particular application.

The foregoing statements shall supersede the terms and conditions, whether express or implied, of any separate agreement of purchase and sale between Wazoodle and the purchaser.

Absorption in Fabrics

We strive to provide high-quality fabrics suitable for a diverse range of applications. It is important to note, however, that we do not perform absorption testing on our fabrics. The absorbency of any fabric can be significantly influenced by the design and construction of the final product in which it is used.

Key Points:

Product Design Influence: The ultimate absorption capacity of a fabric in a finished product depends heavily on the product's specific design and construction. Variations in design can lead to significant differences in performance.
Recommendation for Testing: We strongly recommend that customers conduct their own testing to determine the absorption characteristics of our fabrics in conjunction with their product designs. This testing should consider all elements of product design and the interaction between different materials.
Interactions with Other Materials: The performance of our absorbent fabrics can be affected by the use of additional layers or materials. For instance:
- Adding a cotton top layer may enhance the overall absorption capability.
- Integrating a moisture-wicking layer can facilitate rapid moisture dispersion, potentially reducing compression leaks and influencing perceived absorbency.
Variability in Performance: Due to the myriad of factors that can influence the absorbency of a fabric within a specific product design—including material combinations, construction techniques, and external conditions—we cannot guarantee specific results without proper testing.

Copyrights & Trademarks

AKASTiq® is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
Dri-QWick™ is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
ECO-PUL™ is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
ProCare® is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
ProCool® is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
ProECO® is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
ProSoft® is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
Stretch-FIT™ is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.
TransWICK™ is a registered trademark of AKAS Tex.

SILVADUR™ is a registered trademark of DuPont de Nemours, Inc.

REPREVE® is a registered trademark of Unifi, Inc.

COOLMAX® is a registered trademark of The LYCRA Company.
Lycra is a registered trademark of The LYCRA Company.

Zorb® is a registered trademark of Wazoodle Fabrics.

Can I use your brand information on my products?

Yes, it is possible, however please see the Licensing FAQ for all the requirements.

Made in USA

Proudly committed to American craftsmanship, every fabric we offer is designed, sourced, and manufactured in the USA, ensuring top quality, supporting local jobs and low carbon footprint.

Eco-Friendly

Each eco-friendly fabric from Wazoodle is a statement of sustainability, designed to leave a gentle footprint on the earth while providing consumers with high-quality textile options.

PFOS Free

With PFOS-free fabrics, Wazoodle takes a stand against persistent pollutants, offering textiles that are safer for both customers and the ecosystem. PFOS = Perfluorooctane Sulfonate

PFOA Free

PFOA-free fabrics at Wazoodle underscore their commitment to non-toxic textiles, aligning with their pledge for environmental and consumer well-being. PFOA = Perfluorooctanoic Acid.

BPA Free

Wazoodle ensures that our BPA-free fabrics maintain the highest safety standards, free from controversial chemicals that are used to make plastics, for customer peace of mind. BPA = Bisphenol A.

Breathable

Wazoodle's Breathable fabrics are a top choice for activewear manufacturers. They allow for effective moisture and air passage, crucial for maintaining comfort during physical activities.

Hypoallergenic

Wazoodle's hypoallergenic fabrics are specifically designed for those with sensitive skin, offering a soothing touch that is free from common allergens and irritants, ensuring comfort and safety.

Waterproof

Wazoodle's Waterproof fabrics offer complete moisture protection. These materials ensure that items stay dry in wet conditions, providing reliable leakproof protection, performance and durability.

Child Safe

Wazoodle's child-safe fabrics are rigorously CPSIA tested and approved; making them perfect for creating a worry-free environment for children and prioritizing the health and safety of our little ones.

CPSIA Certified

Wazoodle Fabrics ensures reliability and trust by adhering to the stringent CPSIA safety standards set by the CPSC in 2008, certifying all our American-made textiles for consumer confidence.

Vegan

Wazoodle Fabrics caters to the compassionate consumer with the collection of vegan fabrics, ensuring no animal products are processed or used, aligning with ethical fashion and manufacturing principles.

Water Resistant

Wazoodle's Hydrophobic fabrics provide moderate protection against moisture, ideal for clients who need fabrics that handle light rain or spills while maintaining some breathability.

Latex Free

Wazoodle's Latex-free fabrics are a boon for allergy sufferers, offering responsible and high-quality textiles without the risk of latex-induced reactions that can have an adverse effect on the health

Chemical Free

Wazoodle's commitment to safety and sustainability is evident in our chemical-free fabrics that provide a safe, non-toxic textile choice, reflecting dedication to health and the environment.

Our Sustainability Initiatives:

Sourcing materials locally made in the United States

All the fibers and yarns we use are sourced directly from local mills right here in the United States.

Using materials without harmful chemicals

There are no PFAS, PFOA, lead, dioxins, heavy metals, BPA, phthalates, formaldehyde, or nanoparticles in our fabrics.

Partnering with responsible & sustainable vendors

All of the partnerships we work to establish are done with an eye towards greater sustainability for all of us.

Creating durable, reusable waterproof fabrics

We melt-bond specially-treated TPU film to our fabrics for a highly-durable protective waterproof layer.

Safe working conditions and fair labor practices

Our American facilities follow all labor laws and provide our employees with safe workplace practices.

Environmentally-safe manufacturing processes

We closely monitor our textile facilities in order to use EPA-compliant processes that don´t pollute the environment.

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