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Drafting patterns for sewing is an incredible skill, and one that takes a lot of time and focus to do successfully. Thus, it would be the height of folly to promise to teach you how to draft a pattern from scratch in one brief article. We would, however, like to give you a quick overview of some pattern drafting methods and start you on your journey toward making your very own patterns. From there, you should have no trouble finding countless hours of tutorials that will delve into your chosen method with more detail.
One of the easiest methods for creating a pattern is tracing an already existing article of clothing. This is done by folding the garment in half vertically, laying it on the fabric and tracing it out, making sure to leave seam allowance. This is a quick and easy method, but it often lacks precision and will be a lot more difficult to do successfully with more complex pieces of clothing like coats and suit jackets. But for simple pants, skirts, and shirts it can work well. As with any time you try to replicate something you already have, make sure the fabrics are similar. A jersey knit is going to behave and drape very differently from linen, so don’t expect the tracing method to work consistently across different types of fabric!
If you have a dress form, draping can be a great technique for creating patterns. Typically, when using this technique, you tape the shapes of necklines and armscyes directly on the dress form as a guide. Then, taking a cut of fabric (usually white muslin), you lay it over the dress form, pinning it in place and making adjustments as you go along. If you use tape to outline seams, it can be even easier. You just lay small blocks on fabric over the form and trace the tape lines to create individual pattern pieces. One of the major benefits of this method of pattern-making is being able to see how the fabric hangs on a three-dimensional form. Creating darts and pleats can be simpler, especially for those who struggle with the math side of pattern-making, when done on a dress form.
Let’s admit it: pattern pieces can be really confusing. It can be a real struggle to see how various odd flat shapes of fabric, when joined together, create a completely different multi-dimensional shape. One way to get around this struggle when trying to come up with a new pattern is to just alter an already existing pattern that is fairly similar. Adjusting necklines, length, and collar shape can be pretty simple, and even changing dart placement is easier than trying to come up with a pattern from scratch. There are many sources for pattern alteration, and it’s a really important skill to learn when trying to expand your sewing knowledge. Furthermore, it’s a skill necessary for the next method of pattern-making we are introducing.
Possibly the most advanced technique for drafting a pattern, yet also the most versatile, is creating a pattern block (also known as a sloper) to fit your chosen measurements and using it as the basis for any number of designs you wish to create. Basic blocks are simple versions of the front and back pieces needed for a bodice, pants, and a skirt, as well as a sleeve piece. The combination and alteration of these basic shapes creates all manner of clothing patterns. By using the split and spread method, you can make a full skirt out of a basic block, turn the basic sleeve into a bishop sleeve, or rearrange darts and seams. You can download pattern blocks and then adjust them or even create one yourself using your own specific measurements.
Well, it really depends on what you’re making and your experience. Some swear by basic blocks, even for beginners, as they’re so versatile and really teach you how to alter patterns. But for quick changes, altering a pre-existing pattern can be a great method, while draping is especially useful for costumes, evening wear, and in general anything that involves a lot of volume or drape. Meanwhile, for beginners and anyone wanting to recreate something that already exists, the tracing method can be a great choice.
Regardless of which technique you utilize—and you can use different methods for different projects—one key aspect of creating patterns is making sure to use markings as important indicators for construction. Pay attention to the grainline and mark it on the pattern, as how the fabric hangs will change the look of the finished garment, and use notches and dots to help you know where to join two pattern pieces.
Knowing your fabric is also an important element of creating a pattern, especially when using a draping method. Different fabric behaves differently, so we recommend buying swatches so you can better visualize how your finished product will look.